Men’s Skincare: Expert Advice from Dr. Jimmy Lam
Jimmy Lam, MD is a board certified dermatologist at Cedars- Sinai in Los Angeles, CA
What are the most common skincare mistakes you see men make?
This one isn’t necessarily limited to just men- it’s something that has been coming up lately amongst both men and women. People aren’t using sunscreen, which is a huge mistake, and this is due to an overflow of misinformation on social media. All of a sudden, people are hesitant to apply protection because there are rumors that it causes cancer, which is untrue. Sunscreen is being made out to be the devil, which I simply cannot engage with.
For men who want to start a skincare routine but feel overwhelmed, what’s a simple, no-fuss routine you’d recommend?
Focus on ingredients to simplify things. You need niacinamide, peptides, retinol, and vitamin C. These are all easily accessible and relatively cheap.
What are your top tips for keeping the skin underneath healthy for men with facial hair?
Most people with beard hair have seborrheic dermatitis. Most people think flakiness is related to dry skin, so they stop washing. I challenge patients to re-incorporate washing to reduce dandruff and moisturize the area. I recommend the Cerave Anti-Dandruff Shampoo and Conditioner.
What are the most popular cosmetic trends amongst men in LA right now?
I don’t know any ‘popular’ trends right now. However, asking questions about anti-aging and prevention is very ‘on trend.’ I often discuss things like radiofrequency devices, Fraxel, IPL, etc.
While on the topic of popular trends, thoughts on red light?
It seems like there’s enough literature to suggest many benefits associated with red light, though just like everything, it takes time to work. One important thing to note is that it may not be suitable in select patients, i.e., patients with melasma.
Can you walk us through your personal skincare routine?
AM Routine
Gentle cleanse: something like Neutrogena Hydroboost Gel cleanser
Vitamin C: During the winter, I use Skinceuticals CE Ferulic; during the summer, I use Skinceuticals Silymarin CF or CE Ferulic.
Peptides + DNA/growth serum: Right now, I’m mixing Rejuran Advanced Anti-Aging Retinol + c-PDRN® Serum and one of the following peptides (Colorscience Pep Up, Medik8 Liquid Peptides, Skinceuticals P-TIOX)
Niacinamide: Belif Super Drops Niacinamide Golden Glow Serum. Given the ingredients, this is an excellent product for men who want to use as few products as possible.
Acne treatment: Azelaic acid 15-20% (I generally use prescription, but Paula’s Choice makes a good 10% booster) + Dapsone
Tinted sunscreen + Snail Mucin + Moisture- I mix Colorescience Sunforgettable Total Protection Face Shield SPF 50 with CosRX Snail Mucin (tends to prevent the tint from rubbing off) and Skinceuticals A.G.E Interrupter.
PM Routine
Gentle cleanse OR acne cleanse: something like Neutrogena Hydroboost Gel cleanser OR Neutrogena Clear Pore
Niacinamide: Neutrogena Resurfacing Serum, Stubborn Texture, With 10% Niacinamide & 4% Neoglucosamine
Retinoids & Acids (skin cycling):
I use retinoids 2-3 times per week, rotating between Tazorac, Aklief, and Tretinoin 0.1%
On nights that I’m not using retinoids, I rotate between the following acids: Neutrogena Stubborn Blackheads Daily Serum, Kiehls Ultra Pure High-Potency 9.8% Glycolic Acid Serum, and Sunday Riley Good Genes Lactic Acid
Acne treatment:: I use Azelaic Acid 15-20% every night, and if I have an active break out, I add Amzeeq +/- clindamycin lotion
Peptides: see above!
What’s one procedure you swear by personally?
I use three different procedures every year, one each, in this order (spaced out, of course):
Fractionated nonablative laser
Microneedling with PRF
Medium depth peel - love TCA peels
Are there any new skincare or cosmetic innovations you’re particularly excited about?
I’m fascinated by Korean skincare, so I purchased the VT Reedle Shot 100. It’s made from microneedle-shaped ingredients from hydrolyzed sponges and is supposed to simulate microneedling. User beware- this isn’t for the faint of heart!