Everything You Need to Know About Microneedling
Microneedling has gained significant popularity in recent years, and for good reason. This minimally invasive procedure offers a variety of skin benefits, from improving texture and tone to reducing acne scars and fine lines. But before diving into the trend, it’s important to understand what microneedling entails, how it works, and whether it’s the right treatment for you.
What is Microneedling?
Microneedling, also known as collagen induction therapy, is a procedure where fine needles puncture the skin to create controlled micro-injuries. These micro-injuries stimulate the body’s natural wound-healing process, promoting collagen and elastin production.
What it’s used for:
Improving skin texture and tone
Reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
Minimizing acne scars and other types of scarring
Enhancing the effectiveness of topical treatments by increasing absorption
A 2015 study published in the Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery found that microneedling significantly improved acne scars after three treatments spaced a month apart, highlighting its effectiveness for scarring (Dhurat et al., 2015).
Where Should You Have Microneedling Done?
Microneedling should be performed in a licensed dermatologist's or plastic surgeon's office for best results and safety. Medical-grade devices penetrate the skin more effectively and are administered under sterile conditions, minimizing the risk of infection. DIY or spa treatments may not offer the same level of precision or safety.
Different Types of Microneedling
Traditional Microneedling: Uses a handheld device or roller with fine needles to create micro-injuries.
Microneedling with Radiofrequency (RF): Combines microneedling with RF energy to further tighten the skin and improve texture. Studies have shown this to be particularly effective for deeper wrinkles and scars (Alster et al., 2018).
Microneedling with Exosomes: A newer therapy that uses exosomes—tiny vesicles derived from stem cells—to enhance healing and collagen production. Exosomes deliver growth factors and anti-inflammatory properties directly into the skin, amplifying microneedling results.
How Frequently Should Microneedling Be Done?
The frequency depends on your skin concerns and goals.
For general skin rejuvenation: Every 4-6 weeks for 3-6 sessions.
For acne scars or deeper wrinkles: Every 6-8 weeks for 4-6 sessions.
Post-Care After Microneedling
After microneedling, your skin will be more sensitive and prone to irritation. Here’s how to care for it:
Avoid makeup for 24-48 hours.
Use gentle cleansers and moisturizers without active ingredients (e.g., no retinoids or acids).
Apply SPF religiously—your skin is more susceptible to sun damage post-treatment.
Avoid sweating and heat (e.g., saunas, hot yoga) for 48 hours to reduce the risk of irritation or infection.
Concerns with Microneedling
While microneedling is generally safe when performed by a professional, there are risks to consider:
Infection: Improper hygiene can introduce bacteria into the skin.
Hyperpigmentation: Particularly in darker skin tones if post-treatment care isn’t followed.
Breakouts: People with acne-prone skin might experience flare-ups post-treatment.
Overuse: Frequent treatments without adequate healing time can damage the skin barrier.
At-Home Microneedling: Worth It?
As a dermatologist, I tried at-home microneedling out of curiosity (and for science!)—and I wouldn’t recommend it. Despite being extremely careful, I broke out afterward, which was frustrating and counterproductive. At-home devices don’t penetrate the skin deeply enough to provide meaningful results, so it’s not worth it.
Does Microneedling Live Up to the Hype?
In the hands of a professional, microneedling can deliver impressive results. With the addition of advanced therapies like exosomes, it’s becoming even more effective for collagen stimulation and skin rejuvenation. However, it’s essential to approach this treatment with realistic expectations and prioritize safety.
If you’re considering microneedling, consult a board-certified dermatologist to ensure the treatment is tailored to your skin’s needs. And remember: the best results come with patience, consistency, and proper care.
Sources:
Dhurat R, Sukesh M. "Microneedling in dermatology." J Cutan Aesthet Surg. 2015;8(3):132-134.
Alster TS, Graham PM. "Microneedling: A review and practical guide." Dermatol Surg. 2018;44(3):397-404.